Barcelona, I carry your heart

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A wise man by the name of Dave Matthews once wrote, “It’s not where but who you’re with that really matters.” This quote has been a favorite for a long time – I’m pretty sure it’s on my middle school yearbook page.  I like to think that I was wise beyond my years, but I’m pretty sure I google searched awesome quotes and put something cliché and naturally a DMB song lyric down.

However, as I’ve moved through life, through different places and spaces, that point has only become more and more true and significant for me. The relationships that I have made with new people in each new stage of my life are what have made those moments worthwhile.

Never has this sentiment hit home harder than during these past few months working for Bus2alps. You can look at my pictures and see these amazing places and incredible buildings full of history and say to yourself – this girl would be crazy to complain. But you can be lonely in any city, as I’ve learned in the few weeks I was in Barcelona without my roommates. And yes, I will remember the Eiffel Tower lit up at night and the tapas in Seville and the view from Eze in the French Riviera, but I’ll also remember that it was the first time that Amanda had ever been to Paris and the five amazing girls who were lucky enough to have Rafael as their guide through my favorite town in Spain and the near-fainting experience that Sydney had when we saw Nicole Kidman and Keith Urban in Eze.

I will take home with me memories of Bar del Born, the days wandering around el Gotico just because, the awe from the inside of the Sagrada Familia, the family dinners where we stayed in just to hang out together. Those “Wow, my life is incredible,” moments that stop you in your tracks as you realize that you are so incredibly blessed to be alive and to know the people you do.

This job really has been one that has turned coworkers into friends, and friends into family. My Barcelona crew is now another part of my family, the ever-growing group of people that have made their mark on my heart and who I will carry with me always.

So hasta luego, Barcelona. ...here is the deepest secret nobody knows (here is the root of the root and the bud of the bud and the sky of the sky of a tree called life; which grows higher than the soul can hope or mind can hide) and this is the wonder that's keeping the stars apart i carry your heart (i carry it in my heart)

In Defense of Thanksgiving

I have heard rumors that we may or may not be considering going out to eat for Thanksgiving dinner, and I am writing to implore you to reconsider.

After spending the majority of the past six months abroad and away from everything that is good and American, I have been counting down the days to Thanksgiving. The stuffing, the turkey, the gravy, the mashed potatoes, anything pumpkin, I'd love some nice roasted green beans with slivered almonds maybe...I digress. More importantly, I have been looking forward to the quality time spent with the fam and friends. The camaraderie as we all work together to accomplish one of the most delicious meals of the year. The high fives after the turkey is not burnt or still squawking. The football game on the tv in the background. The Cohn vs. Faxon touch football game that I have been meaning to tell you is occurring.

Now, I realize that with all of these feelings of warmth and tenderness can also come a lot of stress regarding the timing, the food, the cleaning, etc. And I know that as parents you get sick of cooking every day and would love to take a night off to enjoy everything yourself. So I have a solution. I'll do it. Everything. I'll make a menu and get approvals from everyone. I will do the shopping, the prep work, the table setting, the turkey basting, the pumpkin carving, the potato smashing. I've been wanting to make my own turkey for a while now, and I already have an Herb-Butter Turkey Recipe from Tom Colicchio picked out.

I will even clean. I will spend the hours or so making sure that each square millimeter of crystal is shiny and sparkling. I will make sure that the silverware is polished and back in the box, that the trash is taken out, and that the only scent remaining in the kitchen is that of lemon and thyme from the organic cleaning products that we know and love.

Your day will be absolutely stress free. I'll even schedule in some hors d'oeuvres so that you don't get too hungry, and maybe I'll employ Charlotte and Syd to pass. The wine will flow like the beer in Prague, the cheese will reek of France, and any other little European touches I've picked up can get thrown in as well.

Please just give me the go ahead, and I promise Bon Appetit will come alive in your kitchen. This would mean the world to me, and would make all of my dreams come true.

Awaiting your decision with baited breath and a growling stomach.

Best Regards,

Mel Faxon

Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose

Syd and I were talking the other day, and she said to me, “the more I travel, and sit in cafés or go through airports or walk through parks, the more I realize we’re all just people. We’re all a little bit weird, and we’re all just people.”

It’s true. No matter where you go, you will always find people holding hands, there will always be moms pushing strollers and kids playing tag, there will always be guys hitting on girls in bars, or vice versa. There will always be people eating, old couples sitting down on a bench simply happy to be alive.

So often, I hear Americans say, “Oh my god, the French are so rude,” or “Italian men are so aggressive!” But my first thought is, “Have you been to New York?” or “Have you been to a frat party?” There will always be some cities where people are harder around the edges, where smiles don’t flow as easily as they do in places like the American South. I grew up in New England – when people smile at you on the street you run away. And yes, maybe in some terms Italian men get very excited about American girls, but I’ve never felt as accosted as by a fraternity brother after one too many rounds on the ruit table.

There’s nothing like a language barrier to help emphasize the fact that we are all just in this life together.  When you have to struggle to communicate, to act things out with your hands or even your whole body, when you are able to laugh at yourself in your foolishness and celebrate with the other person when you both finally get your point across – it’s one of the greatest feelings of accomplishment. And nothing unites different people like laughter.

The point is, the more that I interact with different cultures, and the more that I learn new differences, the more I realize that there really aren’t any.  I think that living abroad has really given me a gift in helping me realize this.  We’re all just people trying to live from one day to the next, and there’s no room for fear or ignorance.

Southern Spain, I just can't quit you

 So I’ve been hating on Spanish cuisine a little bit. After spending a summer eating some of the best cuisine France had to offer, adjusting to a diet with staples such as fried potatoes with mayonnaise and ham was slightly depressing. I was beginning to think that I was doomed a palate of bland fried food for the rest of my time here, and then this weekend I went to Southern Spain.

There is definitely a reason why Sevilla is known for its tapas (besides being the origin of the dish). I didn’t eat a bad thing while I was there. From the smoked salmon, avocado and tomato salad for lunch, the unreal quail and ratatouille tapa at Panduro, or even just the best Spanish tortilla I’ve ever consumed as a small snack, this food left me at a loss for words.

Taberna el Panduro has won the award in Sevilla for the best tapas for a couple years running now, and it wasn’t hard to taste why. With a green “creamy” risotto, the best Tuna Tataki in the world, and the most wonderfully juicy swordfish, this place is as much of a must-see as the Plaza de Espana. 

Add in the largest cathedral in the world, Las Setas, and one of the largest "old towns" in Europe, Sevilla is the most beautifully delicious city in Spain.

Combine this with Granada, where it is a law that if you order a drink in a restaurant, they have to give you free tapas, and Southern Spain is my new favorite place in the world. Leaving this morning was a conscious mental strain, and I will be dreaming about The Land of the Tapas until my next visit.

Pinterest is the best worst thing that’s ever happened to me

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I’m not sure if you’ve discovered the magical wonderland that is Pinterest yet, but I must strongly advise against it. Restrain yourself. Don’t go down that road. You’ll never come back.

You want to travel? Well Pinterest has that covered. Even I have a Wanderlust board full of photos of places that I have been, and many more that I have yet to tackle. But looking at those pictures doesn’t come close to actually going. Browsing through someone else’s boards with captions like #50thingsbeforeIdie doesn’t help you book that ticket. It just makes your eyes glaze over and five hours later you realize that you’re still sitting at a desk and not on a plane.

Oh, do you want to lose weight? Well Pinterest just became your new personal trainer. There are countless ab exercises, squats you’ve never even heard of, all attached to amazing, rock hard bodied models who have 5% body fat, do yoga every morning after their 13 mile run and only eat kale and quinoa, unless they’re juicing. Oh, and don’t worry, there are quotes times a bajillion for any moment of weakness (just pain leaving the body) to help you stay motivated. Don’t even think about eating that cookie, because a moment on the lips isn’t worth the 6 hours of interval sprints on the treadmill that you’d need to burn if off. Don’t go near that pumpkin spice donut with buttermilk spiced glaze…

And OMG did you see those Pumpkin flavored rice krispy treats? Right next to the autumn white wine sangria, the flourless chocolate cake with raspberry whipped Chantilly and the chicken potpie that you can make in less than 23 minutes? And yeah those Red Velvet Crepes might not be the healthiest but if you eat them as a dessert after that super healthy BUT WAIT GRILLED CHEESE MAKEOVERS? And after that killer workout this morning you can definitely afford to eat all the perfect crockpot mac and cheese that you want and still fit into those amazing…

Chanel tweed pants and Tory Burch flats. Oh, you don’t make a million dollars a year? You can’t afford to buy out the top floor of Barneys? Don’t worry, after you’ve searched through every Vogue Fashion week pin, Etsy will show you how to sew your own peppermint buttons and pin them on your own handcrafted wooden corkboard to go on the whitewashed walls of your dream kitchen overlaid with fur rugs and decorated with the best art possible while your five puppies and commercial ready small children walk hand in hand through flower filled gardens.

I give up.  

An ode to Barcelona

I know I’ve written about the fact that I like being a tourist, but this weekend really nailed that sentiment shut. Being able to guide the trip to Barcelona was one of the most rewarding experiences of my life.

There is nothing like going around a city in which you live with someone new. Someone who hasn’t seen the mosaic tiles of Casa Batlló. Someone who hasn’t had their breath taken away when walking into Catedral de Santa Maria del Mar. Someone who has never tasted patatas bravas.

There’s something magical about the small winding streets of the Gotico and El Borne. There’s something exhilarating about the wind in your hair while biking through the Parc of the Citadel. Something youthful about the candy land that is Parc Guell.

When you show someone around your city, and you see their amazement, their excitement, when you experience their physical response, it affects you as well. Maybe subconsciously, maybe blatantly, but all I know is I fell in love with Barcelona all over again this weekend. 

Hindsight

Being in Barcelona as a college graduate is undoubtedly much different than being here as a student studying abroad. Hanging around with college kids will definitely throw waves of nostalgia at you, and also make you rethink your time abroad. I hear all of these plans and new questions, and can’t help but to think of things that I would have done differently.

1. I would have spent my time traveling to those places I will probably never go again. Not to say in any way that I didn’t love the traveling that I did in Europe – there wasn’t a city I didn’t like or an experience that I regret. But I wish I had been a little more adventurous, and chosen the places like Istanbul, Morocco, Hungary. Those are all places that I will most likely never go with my family later on in life, and even with the best job in the world some of them may not work out.

2.     I would have spent more time exploring Paris and less time being hungover. Granted, most Barcelona kids go out during the week so they’re just hungover during class, but I had my fair share of Fridays and Saturdays that were spent watching tv online instead of out and about learning the city in which I was living. I am so lucky that I have gotten to go back to Paris, but if I could say anything to my study abroad self, it would be “the whole bottle isn’t worth it."

3.     I would have sent more postcards. My boyfriend at the time’s Granny lived in the south of England, and had an entire wall of postcards from all of her family and friends and the places they’d been. I actually did send her a postcard from every place that I went, but I wish I had sent them to my family, to my friends, etc. How cool would it be for my 10 yr old sister to have a postcard timeline from my travels abroad? I’m definitely trying to make an effort now, but it won’t be the same.

4.     I would have done a homestay. Now, for anyone already abroad, this is moot, but for those of you considering it – there is nothing like the challenge of living with another family and their culture to really allow you to understand a new city. Living in France this summer was one of the most life-changing experiences I’ve ever had, and not only am I now fluent in French, but I feel like I can relate to the French people as a whole.

I’m sure there are more, but this isn’t meant to sound like a wave of regrets. I absolutely loved being abroad, which is why I came back to Europe this year - I couldn’t get it out of my system. It’s just a reminder to appreciate every single small detail and to see the bigger picture at the same time. This opportunity really is just once in a lifetime, and as Ferris tells us, don’t miss it.

A Foodie's Food Frustrations in Europe

A. Ketchup that isn't Heines. This might seem like a minor detail, but organic/knockoff ketchup is the bane of my existence.

B. Breakfast as we know and love it does not exist in the Schengen States. The UK comes decently close, but there is nothing worse than toast when all you want is an eggwhite omelette with mushrooms, fines herbs and goat cheese. Or huevos rancheros. Or home fries. Or french toast with a side of sausage. The worst part is, you would think opening up an amazing breakfast place would be the jackpot of all jackpots. But the only people who would go to it would be Americans if the faces my French family gave me this summer when I ate eggs at breakfast instead of dinner are any indication.

C. Speaking of huevos rancheros - how is Mexican cuisine the most challenging thing to come out of America? There are "tex mex" restaurants scattered throughout Spain, mostly to attract homesick and hungover American students but they just can't quite get to that level of flavor that I would describe as "simple" to accomplish.

D. Caesar salads. Have you ever ordered a Caesar salad in Italy? It comes with balsamic and olive oil. Just...no.

E. Sandwiches. England actually has a couple decent ones, and France has Pret-a-Manger, but typical, build your own sandwich places just don't exist. Neither do bagels. BAGELS.


All of this being said, there are definitely things that Europe has that the U.S. does not. Like French bread and pastry, Spanish Iberico ham, and just anything Italian in Italy. But that's for another post.

Love the one you're with

A girl I met studying in Ireland told me that she didn’t want to travel anywhere else but within her country during her semester abroad. I was dumbfounded – I couldn’t imagine not taking advantage of the opportunity to explore Europe as much as possible.

Upon discussing it with my Bus2alps roommates, however, who are all extensively well traveled and have all had their own European adventures, Grace said, “Well, technically that is the way you’re supposed to do it. Really just stay in one new place and get to know it the best you can.”

I in no way have any regrets about my study abroad experience, but Grace and this student have a point. I was so excited to be in Europe that when I studied in Paris, I was barely in Paris. I went to so many places on the weekends that by the end of the semester, I scarcely knew the city I was living in. My program offered day trips throughout France as well, but I only went on one of the two I was allowed to go on and didn’t even think to try and explore within the same country. It wasn’t until this summer that I saw the south of France – which is an entirely different place and absolutely amazing. I am obsessed with every inch of the French Riviera and cannot wait until I get the chance to explore Auvergne.

This is why if I could do it over again, I would take advantage of the Bus2alps day trips as much as possible. The day trips that we have leaving out of Barcelona are IN-CRED-IBLE, and I really can’t justify not going on them. I know this might seem like a shameless plug, but our trip to Montserrat & Cava tasting is probably going to be my favorite day this semester. I’m also counting down the days until our trip to Southern Spain – Barcelona is so different from the rest of the country, and the chance to experience that difference is an opportunity I refuse to let pass by.

This is not to say don’t go to the rest of Europe. Do. Go everywhere. Go to Prague and Croatia and Paris and Morocco. Fall in love with every city that you can. Just remember that you are here to live here too, and some of the best travels can be found just half an hour outside of your door.  

I like being a tourist

A friend of mine once said that her biggest fear was to be mistaken for a tourist. Now, she was probably trying to be slightly ironic, but for the most part I think she was serious. She really hated the idea of standing out and being recognized as someone who didn’t belong.

As in American living in Europe, it’s not hard to sympathize with both sides of that sentiment.  Americans speak so much more loudly than Europeans. An old boyfriend always used to “turn the volume down” on my American voice to the more appropriate European level. After a while, it’s easy to spot Americans by the way that they dress – there are always the people wearing jeans with sneakers and a t-shirt who really just add to the overall scenery. They come off as obnoxious when yelling in English to someone who primarily speaks another language or as ignorant when they can’t find their way anywhere.

Now, admittedly I do try my best not to do the above things. I have learned to speak softly, never to wear shorts in Paris, and I try my best to study maps and cultures before traveling. But there are aspects of being a tourist that I absolutely love and refuse to abandon.

I love sitting down in a restaurant in a new place and trying to sound out the words in the native language. Even if I butcher them horribly, I’ve found that a lot of waiters and locals appreciate the effort and generally have encouraging smiles at the ready.

I love getting lost in new cities. One of my favorite things to do is wake up early and go for a run without a clue as to where I’m headed.  It’s impossible not to find places you would never see on a general tour, and such a good way to get the feel of a city when the morning is still quiet and it’s just you and the stones.

Most importantly, I love the mentality of being a tourist. I wake up every morning so thankful for the opportunity to be where I am, and so excited to discover something new. Even after living in NYC for almost a year, I discovered something new every day and fell that much more in love with the city. I’ve only been in Barcelona for four days, but I can already tell that this is going to be a love affair to remember. 

So don’t be afraid to wake up tomorrow, even if it’s the same thing you’ve been doing for the past 20 years, and pretend like it’s your first day there. I promise that you will find something new, whether it’s about your neighborhood or about yourself.  

A Foodie's Guide to France

No surprises there, but France is dangerous for those of us who love to eat. I could write a thesis driven essay on the ways in which the bread is better, the cheese is legitimately life altering, and don’t even get me started on patisseries. I’ve been so lucky to be able to eat at some of the best restaurants in the country so far, and will be in a deep black hole of depression when I leave.

I started off my degustation in Paris. The Time Out Paris app helped to locate some of the best places to eat by area, and I helped myself to one of the best patisseries in Paris – Angelina. This was contrasted to Ladurée later on – they both are delicious and more than worth seeking out.

I hiked up to Montmartre to see Sacre Coeur and my favorite view of the city, and stopped in at a little restaurant called Le Mirroir. One of the best things I’ve ever tasted was the “poulet rôti” with mushrooms and fingerling potatoes. Prefaced by fresh asparagus with butter lettuce and mustard vinaigrette, the only thing missing was Owen Wilson and a journey to the 1920s.

We then went to one of the best restaurants in Paris off of the Champs-Elysées – L’Atelier Etoile de Joel Robuchon. The amuse bouche was actually the most flavorful, delicious thing I had tasted up to that point. A truly emotional response, and if you have the means, you can go there and get a prix-fixe lunch for under 45 euro. Do it.

Upon returning to Chateau Calisanne, we took a day trip up to Baux-de-Provence for a trip to Oustau de Beaumaniere. Now, if you are unfamiliar, this place is where Bill Gates used to spend a couple of weeks every summer. It is absolutely stunningly beautiful, but the view doesn’t come close to the food. Our main course was a lobster cooked with fresh local peaches. I can’t even talk about it without drooling. I wouldn’t have thought to put the two together, but the combination was pure ecstasy.

I know that I have being using very absolute statements thus far, but they aren’t exaggerations. These meals have literally been the best of my life. And that’s not to discredit the every day meals that we consume at the house – fresh baguettes, Niçoise salad, apricots and figs from the Chateau itself. Oh yes, and the wine. 

Madison Square Eats

One of the best things – scratch that – the best thing about Manhattan is that there is food EVERYWHERE. I know this isn’t a new concept for a large city, but the quality of the food in NYC is outstanding. You can find some of the best, nicest, most expensive restaurants in the world, but at the same time you can find small hole in the wall authentic cuisines, pop up stands, food festivals, etc.

I stumbled into Madison Square Eats on the way home from a workout the other day. Literally shaking with exhaustion, I could think of no better way to refuel than by checking out the plethora of options offered by the pop-up market.

Among the places I checked out: Birch Coffee, whose delicious iced coffee can be purchased by the jug and brought back for discounted refills – awesome concept/great way to save in a time where a cappuccino sets you back $4.48.

Birch Coffee can be found at 27^th St between 5^th and Madison, www.birchcoffee.com, 212-686-1444. 

I also had my first run in with arancini, which are fried risotto balls. I went for the sweet option – a cinnamon sugar dusted, Nutella filled ball of heaven. Definitely something I will be attempting to make at home.

Arancini Brothers can be found at 940 Flushing Ave, Brooklyn, NY, arancinibros.com

Caracas Arepa Bar

The first thing I noticed was the smells. Not in an overwhelming, affronting way, but in that warm tendril of scent that creeps around your nose way. Bright colors and a cozy setting added to the tantalizing aroma, and I had to restrain myself from tackling the waitress and stealing the food from her tray.

To my taste buds’ delight, the food tasted even better than it smelled. With a menu composed of traditional Venezuelan Arepas, I devoured delicious (gluten-free!!) corn tortilla sandwiches stuffed with things like grilled leeks, sundried tomatoes, caramelized onions, and guayanés cheese.  Sweet plantains stuffed in a cinnamon plantain batter with white cheese tasted like bread pudding, and the guacamole was perfect.

(Leek Jardinera)

To top it off, the cocktail entitled Michelada put a new twist on a refreshing beer.  Caracas Arepa Bar blends raw sugar cane with habeneros, lemon, and a salted rim glass that goes perfectly with the Pacifico beer that you pour in yourself. It may not have been Mexican, but this Cinco de Mayo meal couldn’t have been better.

(Michelada)

Caracas Arepa Bar can be found at 93 ½ E 7^th St, NY, NY 10009 (212) 529-2314, www.caracasarepabar.com/manhattan 

Spring Bliss

Not really much more I could ask for than a poached egg on top of some roasted asparagus. Well, it would have been fantastic if I hadn't overpoached the egg and had been able to grill the asparagus, but I'll still take it. Dusted with some salt pepper and paprika, and that is one happy dinner.

My (not-so) New Obsession

From time to time, I get a strong craving for pasta. And by time to time, I mean every day. In cases of sheer desperation: enter Spaghetti Squash.

Spaghetti Squash might be my favorite vegetable on the planet.  To cook it, all you have to do is cut it in half and put it in the microwave for 9 minutes. Then, using a fork, you scrape out the insides and it naturally shreds like spaghetti.  Top it off with some homemade beef Bolognese and you’ve got guilt-free linguini. Or settle for some store bought pesto with sundried tomatoes and chicken. Eat it plain with salt and butter. Just eat it.

And it’s magic. Bet you had to look twice to tell this wasn’t real pasta. Check out the Mushroom and Leek Spaghetti Squash recipe on the other tab as well for an easy, yet again impressive dish to make for friends.

Little Muenster

My three favorite foods are mac & cheese, grilled cheese, and pizza. In December, I discovered that I had a dairy and gluten intolerance, and my life basically lost all meaning.  My fantasies of homemade baked and breaded, gluttonously cheesy mac turned into torturous nightmares. Pizza translated to death. And grilled cheese? Just stop.

Then, I discovered the answer to all of my gluten-free prayers. A tiny LES h(e)aven called Little Muenster. This perfect hole in the wall of a restaurant specializes in one thing: grilled cheese. And while I don’t discount her amazing abilities as a chef, these aren’t your mother’s grilled cheese. I’m talking masterpieces like gruyere, goat cheese and leek confit with pancetta.  I’m talking butternut squash, brown sage butter and pecorino. Essentially, if you’re mouth isn’t watering already, you don’t have a soul.

How did I eat these? Well, Little Muenster not only takes gourmet to another level, they also offer all of these options with gluten free bread AND vegan cheese. What more could you ask for? Besides a warm bowl of tomato soup that is, which they also have.

Little Muenster can be found at 100 Stanton St, NYC, NY. (212) 203-7197, littlemuenster.com